Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Hippies, English and Dogs, Oh My!

There were a few parts of San Marcos La Laguna that I noticed quickly and the thoughts lingered with me: hippies, English and dogs.

I don’t know how many people in San Marcos would descibe themselves as hippies. For lack of a better word I describe the residence of San Marcos as hippies but they are probably more in line with modern granola, tree hugging, spiritualists. And this is not an undercover jab as I eat granola and yogurt every morning and am definitely an environmentalist. But most of the members in this community like to live outside of the system and would not be considered conforming. They were very friendly and I would love to spend more time there getting to know some of the longer-residing people. Everyone has a story and it would be great to hear some of these tall tales.

The one surprising thing about everyone in San Marcos was the fact that they spoke English and hardly anyone spoke Spanish. Living in Xela I have become accustomed to hearing and interacting in Spanish. While my Spanish is far from fluent I am doing okay and able to converse with most people. Yet San Marco operated like it was located in a Western country. Nobody spoke in Spanish or and few people even attempted to learn basic phrases. And everyone assumed you spoke English like we were not in the middle of Guatemala! People would pass you at the market and say hi. Waiters would come up to your table and ask for your order without first asking if you preferred English or Spanish. It was very odd. I asked a few residence what the deal was. Charlie, who lived in Guatemala for 5 years, said Spaanish wasn’t needed in San Marcos and no one felt the need to learn Spanish there. Paul, who has been there for 2 years and owns a restaurant there, said he could get by with basic Spanish and also didn’t have a need to learn more. He didn’t see the need even after I pointed out that all his restaurant help was Guatemalan and his ‘basic’ Spanish was horrible. While I loved San Marcos La Laguna I would recommend anyone who wants to truly practice Spanish avoid this city or go before they start classes.

The dogs in San Marcos were very different from Xela dogs and the first few days I was very unnerved by their presence. Dogs in many developing countries including Guatemala are wild street dogs 99% of the time. Rarely do people own them as pets and if they do thy fall under home security and not man’s best friend. I have noticed that a number of Guatemalan families and you ng adults own pet dogs and walk them in Central Park on leashes and I’ve even seen a sweater or two. Yet these dogs live indoors and would never be roaming the streets. Any dog walking past you on the street is a stray, possible dangerous and not to be touched. Many have been abused and are jumpy around people so in Xela I give them a wide berth when walking past any. About 4 weeks ago I even had a dog bite at me as we passed each other and that definitely left me apprehensive around street dogs.

So imagine my surprise when I get to San Marcos and learn that most street dogs actually ‘belong’ to someone but they are free to roam the streets. These dogs walk into hotel gardens and restaurant seating freely and will even lounge underneath your chair. I still had no intention of petting one of these dogs and made my feelings known everytime they were around and someone nearby started playing with them. While these dogs may have been tamed street dogs they still wandered the paths in little gangs, like Xela dogs, and that similarity will continue to keep me from befriending them.

Wednesday, November 17, 2010

Trip To Paradise

I took a much needed mini-vacation last week to San Marcos La Laguna. San Marcos is a small community on Lake Attitlan and because of work responsibilities I could not venture very far. So this 4 day trip was perfect since it was only a 2.5 hour chickenbus ride. I have traveled to Lake Attitlan before and visited many of the surrounding towns including Panajachel, Solala, and San Pedro. Yet San Marcos La Laguna was like no place I have ever seen.

To get there I went to the bus terminal here in Xela called Minerva and asked one of the men calling at me which bus was for San Marcos LA LAGUNA. I should explain a few things to set the stage: the bus terminal is like no place any Western ever pictures when they think of bus terminals. Take that image of a Greyhound bus depot and throw it away. To get to the Minerva bus terminal you have to walk through the Minerva market – the largest outdoor market in Xela. So the bus terminal is a branch off from this and a number of vendors spill into the chickenbus section. Now imagine at least 50 yellow school buses, graphitti style painted and you’ll have a better idea of a chickenbus. So there are no information desks, ticket booths, or restrooms. You just walk in the direction of the buses and a number of “assistance” will help you find your bus.

I emphasized the ‘La Laguna’ part of the town’s name because there is another San Marcos that is a small town located near the Mexican border. So to make sure you get on the right bus you have to emphasize that you want the one near the lake which is what La Laguna means. Since I knew there are no direct buses to San Marcos La Laguna I would have to take a bus to San Pedro, get off in San Juan and then take a tuktuk to San Marcos. The ride was nice and the bus was not too overcrowded at any point. That means it never got overwhelmingly stuffed full of people since here in Guatemala it is fine to seat 3 or 4 adults on a bus seat.

Back to explaining San Marcos La Laguna. The community is a completely different world from anything I have ever experienced. It is really a haven for hippies and gringos (white people) since the local Guatemalans live further up the mountain. The entire place is two dirt paths that go up from the dock to the main (and only) road. There you can find a few restaurants, a number of hotels and a lot of yoga and meditation schools. It is a place to get away from city life and relax surrounded by like-minded folks.

I took a yoga and metaphysics class and hiked to a different surrounding village each day. I even was able to visit San Juan La Laguna where one of the cooperative groups is located in the association I work at. Each night I was in bed by 20:30 (8:30pm) and waking up to birds instead of honking cars was quite a change. Unfortunately, like a good dream, this mini-vacay ended way to soon. Before I was prepared to face reality I was taking a launcha (boat) to San Pedro and catching a bus back to Xela. While returning to reality, work and city pollution has not been fun I know that another adventure is a quick chickenbus away and I will not wait another 4 months to get on one.